Tuesday, December 20, 2005

Mulu National Park

A short 25 minutes flight from Miri (by road it takes 7 difficult hours). There is no electricity here, but we have generator.

Soon as I arrived I tried to start my pinnacles/gunung api trek. It normally takes 3-day 2-night, but I felt since I just finished Mt. Kinabalu not long ago, I am fit to do this. Not knowing it is not the fitness, but the footing and mental factor.

After talking to a tour guide and the park people, I decided to go with the tour company since it is cheaper for one person. So after lunch (couple hours after I landed), I transfered the things I needed for the overnight trek to my small backpack and off we go to camp 5.

The journey started with an hour long boat ride up the river. The river level was low, so we have to get out and push the boat couple times. The guide stop at riverside shop and bought some alcohol for the trek. The boat landed 800 meter short of high water landing and the starting point of the 8km trek to camp 5. We rested for about 15 minutes and then we're on our way to camp 5 through muddy and leeches infested trail.

Soon as we started the dark cloud rolled in and rain started to coming down. We have no choice but to push on with our rain gear, even though it was hot and humid. By the time we reach camp 5 around 5:10PM, I was all wet from rain and sweat!

We caught up to a group of 6 hikers right at camp 5. There are pretty much all wet as well. Everyone start strip down and checking for leeches.

I already found one halfway through the hike and no harm was done since it just latched on. But at camp 5 I noticed the blood stain on my sock, and when I took it off, the sign of leech attack was evident. That leech had it fill and was gone, so I just ended up with bleeding wound that won't stop for about an hour (see picture).

All in all, I had 4 leeches, only one that got its fill.

The shelter at camp 5 was open on 2 side and the heavy rain continued through out the night. I did not pack a blanket, so I used my plastic backpack cover as sheet, I felt a little cold (with wind), so I did not get a good night sleep...

When we wake up on day 2, it was still raining pretty steadily, we was told if the rain does not stop by 8AM then there will be no climbing for the day. We all pretty much giving up hope on going, until the rain suddenly stopped at 7:30 and I was off by 7:40.

The hike distance is only 2.4 KM (1.5 miles), but it raise 1200 meter (4000 feet) over that distance, very steep!

I had big breakfast so for first 30 minutes I felt terrible, then I felt better and picked up my pace up the steep and sharp/slippery limestone, tree roots.

We arrived at the view point around 9:53 to a cloudy but clear view of the pinnacles.
The sight is very similar to that of stone forest just right outside kunming china, but the journey definitely more interesting and intense. And best of all I have the place all to myself, no hords of Chinese tourist!

we lingered till 10:35 or so and started our way down. The slipperly and sharp rocks slowed the steep descent, where I fell couple times, banged my shine, so I had few cuts and bruises after the downhill portion. I think we got back to camp 5 around 12:50. I think this is the toughest downhill hike along with Mt Kilimanjaro ever. Mt. kilimanjaro isn't as slipperly, but longer.

After about an hour of rest and food, we are off to go back to the park HQ. The all night rain flooded many parts of the trail that were already muddy. So our progress was not too fast. But the rain did help raise the river level so the boat can pick us up at the 8km point. I was glad to get on the boat and head back to hot shower and dry clothing.

I slept for 10-12 hours I think that night.

next day I was off to visiting 4 show caves in the park. these shows have lights and pathway for visitor, but they are not over commercialized like that of luray.
I enjoyed the visit to the clear water cave where a river runs through it and the deer cave where million of bats lived in it and come out at evening (if weather is nice). I witness stream of bats coming out for at least 30 minutes that evening.

Mulu has the largest cave in world, sarawak cave, it is closed due to high water, also it is very difficult to get there.

I intended to do some adventure caving, but was told everything was cancelled due to holiday. I was pretty mad, because when I asked the park people on the day that I arrived all they told me was that I just need to find one more person to sign up for the adventure caving, and when I goto back 2 days later after I found some other people, they told me the real story, poor communication!!!

So I leave a day earlier back Miri to catch bus to Niah cave park. But not before I asked for a night time walk to look for insects. My guides spotted many of them....

I think the Mulu experience is one of my highlight for this trip!





























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